Tokyo Autumn/Winter 2008 Highlight: Monotari One

It was a first participation that swept Tokyo off its feet. In a globalized vision of French flare and British structural rigour, Motonari Ono set the tone for his eponymous label on the opening night of Tokyo Fashion week. Inspired by Japanese video games – notably Final Fantasy – and traditional European clothing, Motonari Ono plays with structure, layering and shape like a young Dior-tamed Japanese Galliano. Combining ruffles, pleats, fringes and patchwork in a demure beige, black and white color palette, every garment is shaped to such precision that you could admire its silhouette alone. The structural skirts constitute with no doubt the element that ties the whole collection together taming Ono’s shapes into a unified Tokyo Glam rock look. Not only are his garments original but they are also wearable – not in the way in which fashion critics usually use that word to lessen a collection, but in its true sense: the Ono woman is a real woman so It she belongs to the fantasy world. As for Motonari Ono himself, his fame is no longer fantasy. The French Vogue already showcased looks from his collection in their Best of Tokyo feature…and if the French like it, so will everybody else.

Winter 2008 Menswear Highlight: Louis Vuitton

Marc Jacobs and his right hand for menswear Paul Helbers delved into an exploration of masculinity through 60’s French robbery movies – notably a 1963 Ocean’s 11 type original (Melodie en sous-sol) set in Cannes starring Alain Delon and Jean Gabin. The outfits were sleek, elegant, slim fitting yet hinting neglect to account for a notion of hurry - ties were hanging undone, layerings was somewhat incongruous, crash helmets still on. Everything from the color palette – lifted from the tones on old bank notes – to the fabrics chosen – silk, fur – were reminiscent of that time period. As for the accessories, the Damier Graphite look is Louis Vuitton’s latest take on its signature print.