Fall 2009 Milan Highlight: Neil Barrett

The house of Barrett decided to play with skewed proportions, trompe l'oeil mash-ups and destabilized formality this season. Faux lapels were muffled under coats and jackets, leggings came out of cropped pants, knit appeared on top of leather. The experiment: an abstract reordering of the gentleman code.

Dsquared sunglasses

Canadian designers Dan and Dean Caten have teamed up with the Marcolin group to launch the first-ever line of Dsquared-branded prescription frames and sunglasses. The group is said to expect a minimum 20 million Euros turnover from the deal. With DSQUARED2 explosive energy and sex appeal the resulting product line will be innovative with a strong attention to detail. The first pairs will not hit the stores until 2009 but be sure to look for them in the duo’s next Spring/Summer men’s collections. Think of how hot the macho models already look, now add sunglasses….gulp.

Winter 2008 Menswear Highlight: Neil Barrett

Since launching its collection in 1999, Neil Barrett has consistently hit the mark to become one of the strongest menswear lines on the runway. With 20 years of experience in the menswear business – having revolutionized menswear at Gucci and practically invented it at Prada – Neil has not ceased to perfect his aesthetic over the years. The 2008 winter collection revisits the gentleman code. Neil Barrett opens with a slim salopette paired with a tuxedo shirt, a bow tie and a declination of is ever-reinvented signature parka. This look is to set the stage for a succession of looks where white shirts are paired with a tie or bow-tie, slim salopette pants, with a vest, jacket or parka. The color palette: whites, blacks, greys and dark blues. The look: urban warrior, punk-rock gentleman, sober but dark. Add to that capes, mittens and a leather jacket and the Neil Barrett man is the elegant bad boy of the winter catwalk.

Spring 2008 Milan Highlight: Dolce & Gabbana

It's hard to imagine Dolce & Gabbana's aesthetic doing anything but squeezing as much excess as is humanly possible out of sex and provocation. This Spring, however, Domenico and Stefano decided not to show a nipple on the runway, not even a peep. Dolce & Gabbana collections are usually fetishistic-sexy-sophisticated, perfectly cut for a dramatic Fellini decor. Steven Klein will have a hard time bringing sex into the sumptuous ballet of Medici extravaganza this upcoming season will bring. The collection starts with a dress in plain white canvas before throwing the audience into a trance of Venetian color palettes splashed onto magnificent pouf-shaped party dresses, chiffons and ball gowns. Trop chic for Pret-à-Porter, blurring the line between Ready-to-Wear and Couture : the excess was sill there, we'll give them that.